Report by Eglė Dean
Art Critic

The young jeweller Marius Zakaras, a graduate of Telšiai Faculty, within five years of graduation became a brilliant and original artist. Chosen conceptualism as his creative direction, he uses the idea as an art-generating mechanism. Chosen the concept as a primary source, he still does not devalue aesthetics by finding the essence of beauty in his purified shapes. According to the artist, he strives to make each piece of art beautiful, he believes, it is the issue of conscience. One as well may mention good taste, absence of cliché, use of new aesthetically-defined approaches. As a teenager decided to become a jeweller, Marius Zakaras recklessly reached his goal. The advent of visual system has proved to be original and innovative, especially in materials selection — the artist likes to use difficult-to-process titanium. Although he also uses organic materials, such as ebony, mammoth ivory, mahogany, amber, titanium, in the artist’s choice, remains the leader.

Report by Sonata Baliuckaite
Art Critic

I love my family — this was the declaration made by the textile Elze Sakalinskaite when she completed the undergraduate studies at the Vilnius Academy of Arts. Simple, clear but brave. In contemporary art, where the aesthetic of ugliness is getting more and more popular  and problematic themes are more relevant than ever before, it is very brave to be sentimental. Elze created 10 objects for her undergraduate work — 10 gifts for each member of her family. In this work, Elze combined textile and jewellery, thus, her artistic way has begun.
For her Master’s work, the artist chose well-liked archaic gold threads laying technique used in Renaissance. The artists created the collection of glowing-in-the-dark textile buttons “Be visible” (lt: „Būk matomas“), only this time she used the luminescent thread. The artist says that the idea born when trying to create exceptional, unique pieces of jewellery, which would not only be functional but also have a symbolic meaning.

Vilnius Academy of Art, Telsiai Faculty, Metal Plastic Department

Report by a professor Laima Keriene


          Contemporary Lithuanian jewelry and professional metal arts began to form in the end of the sixties. Then, the art life was filled with artists, who have graduated from the Tallinn Art Institute, where Estonian professors, who have adopted traditions of German and Scandinavian universities, have been teaching. Professors from Telšiai Faculty, who have studied at Tallinn, adopted strong artistic and professional preparation and characteristic, strict, restrained Nordic expression. Today, the school is open to the world art trends; it is constantly evolving, and acquires more and more new forms of expression. The artists of younger generation, who have graduated from the Vilnius Academy of Arts, are already teaching as well. The study program is based on the principle of idea + craft. It seeks for the relevance of creative projects and integration into the culture. Now, Telsiai Faculty at the Vilnius Academy of Arts has two departments: Metal Plastic and Design. Those two have five art and design undergraduate programs (BA). The most popular is Metal Arts and Jewelry. There are 60 students, who are enrolled in these studies, and each year 15 graduates graduate from the university. (Until 2011, it was called the Jewelry and Smithery).

Report by Angele Juodzeviciene


E. Zumbrickas’s individual enterprise and 26 other Lithuanian jewellery business enterprises have received the European Regional Development Fund support. Participation in the 10th ANNIVERSARY International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” was compensated with 49% of the total costs.

Public institution Enterprise Lithuania (VšĮ “Versli Lietuva”) under the Ministry of Economy of the Republic of Lithuania provided partial funding to the companies participating in the international shows, where export potential of the company groups (hereinafter “IGEI”) as well as expansion of business relations is going to be presented.

The group of Lithuanian jewellery companies took advantage of this opportunity. In the 10th ANNIVERSARY International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”, it is going to present the production of Lithuanian amber and jewellery producers to its potential clients and partners.

Interview with Giedrius Guntorius, head of International Baltic jewellery show ‘Amber Trip’.

This year ‘Amber Trip’ celebrates its 10th anniversary and I will ask you only one question: How far the year 2004 seems to you now?

“Amber Trip” was actually born not in 2004, but in 2003... When I was flying on the plane from one jewellery show, I had an idea: ‘How nice it would be, to have another show in Baltic region for amber and jewellery industry and develop this industry of jewellery business. After another half a year, this idea came back to me with another question: ‘Why am not I doing this?...’ I was struck because I understood it was because I did not tell about it to anybody.  Little by little, telling to some people, I was watching how future participants and visitors react. I was really surprised by their enthusiasm and acceptance about making this show come true.

Regular amber                                                Price/ 1 kg
Amber piece size

+5 - +10 faction                                        450 EUR


Minimum order:   100 - 500 kg
Phone +37069886244

Report by Svetlana Kalinina
Press secretary of Kaliningrad Amber Combine

Kaliningrad Amber Combine is the only state unitary enterprise of industrial amber production and processing on the Russian coast of the Baltic Sea. Kaliningrad region embraces over 90 percent of the world's amber reserves. Besides, Europe's largest Malyshev emerald deposit is under the supervision of SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” for several years as well.  Last year, the Amber Combine celebrated its 65th anniversary which was attended by hundreds of its friends and partners.

Preliminary Results
Performance of 2012 is commented by General Director of SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”, Yuri Mukhin, “Technically, we are happy with the result. All the objectives, that we had set, were succeeded. Though, our efforts were much greater than in 2011 – a peak in terms of turnover when we over passed 25 m EUR on receipt. In 2012, production volumes were lower than last year. An annual production plan amounted to nearly 210 tons; we did not believe we could achieve more under those circumstances.
Nevertheless, we actually extracted nearly 300 tons. This is of the first importance; the team has done a great job.”
A subsidiary of the Combine – JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom,” that produces under the brand name “Amber Combine”, has operated at a profit for the first time per three years. Its turnover was 2.5 mln EUR and resulted in changes of the jewellery design, renewal of the range of products, modernization of jewellery production, and development of a network of company shops.

Report by Olga Konstantinovna Voloshina
Head of Western State Inspectorate of Assay Supervision of Federal Governmental Institution “Russian State Assay Chamber under the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation”


  Western State Inspectorate of Assay Supervision of Federal Governmental Institution “Russian State Assay Chamber under the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation” welcomes organizers and participants of the Anniversary International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip.”
I wish You success in Your creative work, international fame, and further development and prosperity.

 Jewellery branch in Kaliningrad region covers traditional manufacture of silver jewellery with amber. For a while, production of gold jewellery amounts to 9% of the total. Development of the branch is steady and has good prospects. A range of jewellery products is quite diverse: from exclusive handicrafts to stock-produced articles.

In 2012, 656 entities of entrepreneurial activity were registered in Western SIAS, including 223 entities engaged in the manufacture of jewellery.

Interview with Svetlana M. Petropavlovskaya, Director of State Budget Educational Institution of Secondary Vocational Education Art and Industrial College, Candidate of pedagogic sciences, honoured teacher of RF, Companion of Order of Honour

In which year was staff training for amber industry launched? Who has influenced taking the decision which is so important for the amber industry of Kaliningrad region?

A centralized staff training for amber industry started at the State Art and Industrial College in Kaliningrad in 2006. The department of jewellery art for training amber industry’s craftsmen was opened by efforts of the college administration, supported by the Ministry of Education, and approved by the Ministry of Industry and Culture.
It was difficult to teach students the art of amber with the absence of any amber crafter study programme. These activities had never been funded or ordered by the State before. Amber industry’s enterprises did not cooperate with us. Nor we knew about staffing needs.

Калининградские таможенники и производители янтарных изделий договорились об упрощении вывоза продукции из солнечного камня за пределы региона. В первую очередь речь идет о транзите янтаря в регионы России. Один из самых сложных вопросов - вывоз самих изделий, без оправы.

На это требовалось большое количество документов, так как янтарь-сырец - это стратегическое сырье, сообщает подробности ГТРК "Калининград". Теперь таможенникам достаточно будет накладных, подтверждающих легальное происхождение солнечного камня. Для вывоза янтарных изделий в оправе из драгоценных металлов теперь достаточно заключения пробирной палаты и сопроводительного перечня на драгоценности.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsDE60dPUs4

Персональная выставка калининградского художника Вячеслава Мишина

31 мая – 23 июня 2013 года
Открытие 31 мая в 17.00

В Калининградском музее янтаря  31 мая в 17.00 открывается персональная выставка калининградского художника Вячеслава Мишина «Украшения со смыслом». Будет представлено около 90 изделий – ювелирные украшения, предметы интерьера.
– В творчестве меня волнует именно янтарь во всей своей неповторимой красоте, одухотворенности и таинственности, – говорит автор. – В своих изделиях стремлюсь использовать его широкую цветовую гамму. Разработал специальную огранку, при которой достигается полное внутреннее отражение поступающего света, и тогда янтарь сияет своим настоящим блеском без использования фольги и прочих светоотражающих элементов. На мой взгляд, янтарь интересен не только в традиционном сочетании с деревом, металлами, но и с морским стеклом, кораллами, бирюзой, хризоколлой и другими природными образованиями. При этом не ограничено пространство для творчества. В работе привлекает создание образа и придание смысла. Современные тенденции беспредметного искусства – не для меня.

Angele Juodzeviciene  interview with Nikolay Shalna, the Head of the Company “RAYNIK”  

Tell us about how and when the Raynik Company was revived?

The RAYNIK Company was founded in 1996. It was established for wholesale trade of jewelry made from precious metals. We wanted to enrich the Latvian market, filled mainly with consumer goods by that time, with fine jewelry of high quality. After all, the Guild of Jewelers of Latvia was formed back in January 25, 1630, which indicates that the traditions of jewelry art have deep roots in this land.

Tell us about your experience.

At the beginning we were supplying original silverware from the United States, Mexico, Italy and other countries, bringing the exclusive collections from international exhibitions. In 1995, diamond jewelry sales in the jewelry group increased to 28% in value terms. Diamonds have become the top selling product among various groups of goods. After becoming the Kiev Jewelry Factory’s (KYUZ) distributor in the Baltic countries, the RAYNIK Company started to supply high quality ware made of gold and diamonds.

Report by Anna Sado
Editor of the Amber Portal www.amber.com.pl

Last edition of trade exhibition Gold Silver Time, considered to be successful, not only proves the leading role of the event but it also is a harbinger of positive trends at the Polish jewellery market. This year’s trade fair is likely to be at least as good.

Report by Gold Silver Time press office

In this year’s 10th edition of the competition Gold and Silver in Crafts, the competitors were free to choose one of the two “fairylike” topics: The Snow Queen and One Thousand and One Nights. The exhibition of works by masters of goldsmithery has been launched at the Gold Silver Time fair.

The contest jury, which consisted of: Janusz Kowalski – the chairman, OKZ-J ZRP; Dorota Ząbkowska – the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage; Wanda Gontarska – International Fair Centre, PSP Visual Arts Studio; Iwona Lis-Filipczyk – master of goldsmithery (Katowice); Waldemar Wroński – master of goldsmithery (Gdynia), and Jarosław Dytkowski – master of goldsmithery (Warsaw), awarded the following competitors:

Report by Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz

Tomasz Mikołajczyk has been active in the amber industry for more than 20 years. He is a jeweller by education and amber soon became his passion. Out of his admiration for this remarkable stone and the jewellery made with it, an idea came to first create the now closed Mikołajczyki Gallery in Cracow’s historic Sukiennice Cloth Hall, with groundbreaking and unique jewellery from Poland’s best designers and jewellery companies, and then the network of the BORUNI / Mikołajczyki Amber stores in selected Polish cities. Today they are located only in Cracow, where you can buy choice amber jewellery by the leading Polish manufacturers and designers. As a company owner, he places great importance on business reliability and salesperson education.

Report by Mariusz Drapikowski

Mariusz Gliwinski has been active in the amber industry since the late 1970s and has made a significant contribution to its development, mainly by promoting amber and contemporary design in amber jewellery. He is a second-generation jeweller and amber craftsman, designer, co-founder and long-standing president (currently the 2nd term vice president) of the International Amber Association, a member of the World Amber Council in 2006-2012 (founding member) and the STFZ Goldsmithing Artists’ Association. Winner and jury member in many jewellery and design competitions. In 2002, his design was recognised with the prestigious Best Gold Silver Time Product award from Poland’s Minister of Economy, presented at the Gold Silver Time trade show in Warsaw, awarded also for lifetime achievement and the promotion of Polish design abroad.

Report by Pekka Erelt


A dozen years ago, the group of jewellery artists called ohuLoss (Castle in the Air) first stepped into the Marzee Gallery in the Netherlands. Kadri Malk, Piret Hirv, Eve Margus-Villems, Tanel Veenre, Kristiina Laurits, Villu Plink and Katrin Sipelgas, who is now pursuing work in other fields.

Their arrival was made possible by Estonian Academy of Arts professor Kadri Malk, who upon receiving the invitation to the exhibition issued an ultimatum to the Dutch: she would only participate if she could take some younger artists with her. And young indeed they were, some still in university. Some smiled superciliously: “Children on holidays!” But the smirking was quick to cease when these wunderkind put their first works on display. This was something new, a breath of fresh air from Estonia, which had a jewellery art scene and traditions of which not much was known at the time. These young people thought for themselves, boldly, quite differently, without needing to lean on crutches borrowed from their teacher. And even as students, their technical skills exceeded those of many trained jewellery artists in the West

Jelena Muhhamedjanova
Manager of Assay Office of Estonia

Since 2004 hallmarking of jewellery is not obligatory in Estonia. The compulsory marking on jewellery items is that of Sponsor’s mark and Fineness Mark.
 In the same year the State Register of Sponsor’s Marks by the Government of the Estonian Republic was established.

In Estonia, a Sponsor’s mark indicates a manufacturer and an importer, who is responsible for the conformity with the Precious Metal Act of the articles of precious metal.

According to the actual dates, there are 128 manufacturers (a person or an enterprise), 131 importers and 50 enterprises, which have the registration as manufacturer and importer (only valid registration is taken into consideration) in the State Register of Sponsor’s Marks in Estonia.

Report by J. Van Royen, HRD Antwerp

Introduction
The value of a diamond is determined mainly by four important characteristics, the so-called four Cs: Colour, Clarity, Carat and Cut. For many centuries, people have tried to improve the (apparent) characteristics of their stones. In most cases, this is completely legitimate and generally accepted. In fact, the best example of this type of enhancement is the cut: a good cut grade is by definition theresult of human craftsmanship.

Report by Violeta Kisielienė G.G. (GIA)
The head of gem testing laboratory

For 19 years, gem testing laboratory (under PI “Lietuvos Prabavimo rūmai”) has been testing diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and other gemstones that are in the market of Lithuania. Next year, the laboratory will be celebrating its 20th anniversary.

     While talking about the topicality of the laboratory, it is necessary to note that in age of globalization, activity of the laboratory, qualifications of experts-gemologists, and conclusions are inseparably linked to the world’s jewelry industries. We are a part of the same wide chain, which goes directly from the mines to the retail of jewelry piece. At this position, both objectives and methods appear. Gemstones travel all over the world: they are dug up in one place, polished in another, later they are modified, and finally, the stone is mounted in jewelry. This action can be performed in prestigious jewelry companies or private jeweler's workshop, and even places that have nothing in common with jewelry business.
Since 1995, PI “Lietuvos Prabavimo rūmai” has been a part of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO).

Regular amber                                                Price/ 1 kg
Amber piece size

+5 - +10 faction                                               450 EUR

Minimum order:   100 - 500 kg
Phone +37069886244

Report by Asa Axelson, the organizer of Precious fair

Precious was initiated in 1988. Our ambition was to create a forum where the watch and jewellery industry’s leading manufacturers, suppliers and buyers representing Sweden and the Nordic region could meet representatives from the most exciting new and independent watch and jewellery stores. The initiative was well received and Precious is now our most important meeting place. For three intense days and evenings we gather the industry and move it forward. The overall aim of Precious is to increase interest in our handicraft, to make it more attractive and to increase business within the whole sector.

Report by Antonio Altarriba
Art’s promoter

I will here briefly enlighten to Baltic Jewellery readers Finnish schools for jewellery. The Finnish higher education system consists of two sectors, polytechnics and universities, each with its specific mission. Here I present three polytechnics, also called Universities of Applied Sciences, which naturally differ from universities. I name them according to the city: Lahti, Imatra and Kuopio.

Today’s jewellery education in Finland is given mainly at Universities of Applied Sciences, which started to operate in the nineties. In Finnish language are called ammattikorkeakoulu, in English polytechnics or University of Applied Sciences. These institutions are formed as Ltd companies, own and run by local authorities, authorised by the government. There are 25 polytechnics in Finland. The degree studies give a higher education qualification and practical professional skills. They comprise core and professional studies, elective studies and a final project. All UAS (university applied sciences) degree studies include practical on-the-job learning (about six months). The student has to gain 240 credits to get the UAS degree, which takes about four years.

Report by Angele Juodzeviciene

Today the Belorussian jewellery market depends on the import. The demand is chiefly satisfied by imports of foreign articles into the republic.  At the end of 2012, a jewellery holding was created in the country.  Such incorporations are beneficial for the national economy: two industrial enterprises let out around 50 % of domestic jewellery production, and in the total scope of Belorussian sales of “everlasting treasures” their part makes 18 %.

We discuss the structure and strategic tasks with Ruslan Sorokovoj, director general of the managing company of the jewellery OAO “Gomelskoe PO Kristall”.


The holding consists of 3 big jewellery companies, state enterprises. How will the spheres of activities be distributed?

Information prepared by Belarusian Assay Inspectorate under the Ministry of Finances

The infrastructure of the Belarusian jewellery market is sufficiently developed and has the necessary transparency. The state carries out a balanced national policy on the precious metals and stones market management. There are no barriers to entry to the market of new members, regardless of the form of ownership or nationality of the capital.
The jewellery industry in Belarus has been introduced by both large-scale producers of jewellery products of public and private ownership (OAO “Gomelskoje PO “Kristall”, jewellery factory “Zorka”), as well as small enterprises (ZAO “Belgran”, jewellery factory “Egrett” and other) and jewellery workshops.

Would you please tell us about regulations and requirements for assay and jewellery marking applied to Belarusian jewellers, and jewellery products imported from the foreign countries?

The 28th INTERGEM that was held from October 5th till 8th 2012 could prove itself with a positive outcome, despite lower expectations. At total, there were 3.200 visitors from over 50 countries who found their way to the trade fair Idar-Oberstein, in order to take a closer look at the gemstone products and works from the 165 exhibitors, as well as to stock up for their demanding customers during the Christmas shopping season.

This shows that the INTERGEM succeeded in realizing their plans of permanently attracting customers to premium and luxury goods market, although the economic framework with its increased prices for precious metals and an escape of consumers into ideas of values generate a serious effort for the jewelers.

Nevertheless, it is exactly here were the INTERGEM’s strength can be seen: in times, when the creative jewelry artists need to face restrictions as those mentioned above, the range of goods at the INTERGEM offers sufficient options that allow several alternatives for the purchasing of interesting stones. “There are stone chains available in all kinds of terrific and diverse colours, so there are always sufficient alternatives for the jeweler to present himself adequately”, confirms Roman Ruppenthal (Fa. A. Ruppenthal KG). For him, at the moment, Chancellor Angela Merkel is one of the best examples to unofficially advertise variable high quality jewelry.

The fourth edition ofthe Gemworld Munich has seen a small decrease in visitor numbers but ended with all in all satisfying sales for exhibitors. Regarding the uncertain economic environment and the up to now slow business in autumn, many of them put their hopes into the Munich show – and have not been disappointed.

With around 6.000 professional visitors, the Gemworld Munich has attracted about as many visitors as last year. Given that there was a talk of good business despite a considerably grown exhibitor number they must have come to Munich with concrete buying intensions. Vendors of precious stones as well as jewellery manufacturers and suppliers of accessories showed themselves satisfied by the show’s process. While they spoke of reasonable activity on Friday, Saturday was for some a bit too calm. Sunday surprised by a strong rush and steady demand in halls B5 and B6.

More and more visitors from Europe discover the innovative platform and benefit from the extensive offer

INHORGENTA MUNICH extends its market position in 2013

As the established marketplace for jewelry and timepieces, INHORGENTA MUNICH 2013 on 22 - 25 February will set a new milestone. Over 1,230 exhibitors from 38 countries present their product innovations to the international trade audience in Munich. This corresponds to an increase of nine per cent compared to the previous year. Klaus Dittrich, Chairman & CEO of Messe München GmbH, underlines: “INHORGENTA MUNICH is one of the most important platforms worldwide for jewelry and timepieces. The new focus on the lifestyle area supplements our wide-ranging assortment and strengthens our market position. Thus we are further extending the role of INHORGENTA MUNICH as a leading global trade show.”

My name is Soren Fehrn, most of the people in amber business know me, as I have been in the business for 50 years on the 1.st of May 2013.

To many of the bigger producers I was their most important buyer when they started their business. This some of them has forgotten.

My father had wholesale business with articles for Jewellery shops such as cutlery, candlesticks, silver plates, and when articles in gold started to be sold in the shops, he also had these products. As the office was in my parents flat, I have been close to business from the start of my life. Invoices were written by hand and added by brain- power. I remember when we got the first calculator. It could only add or deduct. Then came the first electronic writing machine (IBM), and so continuing.

I have my whole life been trading. When I was 14 my passion was bicycle racing, and therefore I learned everything about  bicycle-bulding, and I build, bought and sold bicycles.

I have all my life been interested in electronics, and have made printed circuits for power amplifiers, which I sold together with all the parts enabling people to build an amplifier. That time all amplifiers were build with radio tubes, as transistors were not yet rape for that. What was then more natural, that my choice of direction was electronics? I therefore started 1962 to study to be an electronic engineer. End of 1962 I had enough. I was on the wrong pass. This was too boring. I decided to join Copenhagen Business School. The class should start in August 1963.

I was looking for a job, and there were plenty, as at that time the business was booming. I could not really decide, so one day I asked my father, whether I could try to go and sell his merchandise in
Copenhagen, as his company (mother & father ) did not have clients there. I got 2 cases with samples, including some amber.

Interview with the Director of the Danish Jewellery Association Jens R. Moller

Tell us about the Danish Jewellers Association

The Danish Jewellers Association was in its present form founded in 1972. In the early 1900 there was a kind of cooperation between jewellery companies that in the fifties later led to a more formalized cooperation. In 1958 a common secretary was established in a joint cooperation between retailer and supplier organizations and today we are still cooperating to facilitate activities that our members can benefit from.

Our Danish Jewellers Association focus iscreating activities that can help our members selling their products. We are co-organizer of the largest jewellery and watch fair in Scandinavia, The Copenhagen Jewellery and Watch Show that this year takes place the 22nd to 25th of August, 2012. We have organized ajoint Danish pavilion at the Inhorgenta Fair in Munich in February and plan to do the same at the IJL London fair in September.

Our Association is deeply involved in education of goldsmiths, silversmiths and designers. Furthermore we advise the government in legal aspects involving the Jewellery business such as topics like hallmarking and the control of fineness.

Report by CIBJO press office

 Gaetano Cavalieri, the president of CIBJO, has outlined a comprehensive doctrine for Corporate Social Responsibility in the greater jewellery industry. He was speaking on December 12 at the 3rd International Gem and Jewellery Conference GIT 2012 in Bangkok, Thailand, where he was the keynote speaker and delivered the opening address.

To be responsible corporate citizens in the modern jewellery business, three basic rules of practice must be followed, Dr. Cavalieri said:

Report by GJEPC press Office


The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council officially inaugurated its Sixth edition of Signature in Mumbai on February 22, 2013, at the Bombay Convention and Exhibition Centre (NSE Complex), Mumbai. Spread over 30,000 sq m with 1083 Booths, IIJS Signature 2013 being held from Feb 22-25, 2013 is the largest of the Signature event held thus far with participation from over 550 exhibitors and over 7000 National and International visitors.

The event was inaugurated by Chief Guest, Smt. Rita Menon, IAS, Chairperson and  Managing Director, India Trade Promotion Organisation, Guests of Honour, Mr. Stephen Lussier, CEO, Forevermark Diamonds Pvt Ltd, London and Shri. Siddharth, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Commerce & Industry along with Chairman, GJEPC, Shri. Vipul Shah, Vice Chairman, GJEPC Shri. Pankaj Parekh and other senior officials from GJEPC and eminent members of the trade. The distinguished guests lit the lamp as a mark of commencement, which was followed by a guided tour around the exhibition.

Report by Rotaforte press office

Turkey’s number one jewellery show organised by UBM Rotaforte, Istanbul Jewelry Show, will be held from 21-24 March 2013 in five halls at the Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo). The four-day event will occupy more than 40,000 square metres of exhibition space and gather over 1,000 exhibitors from 25 countries with an extensive display of the latest products and trends exclusive for industry professionals.

As one of the major players in the world jewellery industry, Turkey is a leading manufacturing and export base that offers abundant opportunities as it is located on the crossroads of three continents and provides a vital focal point for neighbouring countries. In the past 25 years, Turkish gold jewellery producers have been very successful and Turkey became the second biggest exporter in the world after Italy, the fifth largest importer and the third biggest producer after Italy and India. The total value of exports was over 1.8 billion US dollars in 2012.

Report by Ilya Stulov
www.nvspb.ru

In October last year, in Kaliningrad region, the state enterprise “Amber Combine” and the community of amber barons were massively searched. They became a part of a continuous criminal investigation of “dimmed” solar stone export schemes.

In spite of economic justifications and good judgment, all the sales of solar stone at the state enterprise “Amber Combine” were delegated to a dealer, a person with a criminal record, some Viktor Bogdan, rather known in certain circles as Ballet, who got access to absolutely inexplicable privileges by a partnership agreement – the right of grading, pricing, and even returning the unsold amber back to the enterprise. Moreover, unprocessed raw stone is exported abroad at a price of expensive jewellery, while the applicable law obliges the government to compensate the false exporters hundreds of millions of roubles as a value-added tax.

“While having a good front, they had been stealing with complete impunity till the last days,” says a senior officer of Directorate of Internal Affairs, “Indecently close relations with management of the combine. Keeping former security officials for solving all problems by well-known methods. Both here and even in Moscow. Besides, chambering into power – representative and executive.”

Report by Vadim Khlebnikov
www.rugrad.eu

   The clouds have never piled up over the regional amber industry as heavily as in 2012. In fact, an intense concern of authorities and security forces is a dead loss so far: a businessman Viktor Bogdan is still exercising his powers as the Amber Combine’ dealer by exporting dozens of tons of amber through Lithuania; intermediary companies are suing out tax authorities for VAT refunding; while local legislators’ success in suppressing the illegal extraction of amber might be merely called modest.

Aggravation started in February, when the chairman of the Accounting Chamber of the Russian Federation, Sergei Stepashin, came to Kaliningrad to launch audit of the Amber Combine and hold a private meeting with security officials. Stepashin had hardly arrived before the Governor Nikolai Tsukanov, whose relations with the management of Amber Combine have not initially worked out, began to accentuate, “When I asked to let me into the territory to see where amber is mined, what’s all this toil, how it is allocated, and where the processing site is, I was turned from. The Governor was not let in! As they said, “We will not show You, this is a no-go area and special security,” stated Nikolai Tsukanov. Whereat the director of “Amber Combine”, Yuri Mukhin, objected with obvious irritation, “This is not true that you’ve not been let into the quarry.” “Let me leave, then get together and figure out, who whom does not let in,” said Sergei Stepashin by interrupting the quarrel.

Report by O.L. Geleta, PhD in Geol. Sciences,
E.P. Belichenko, PhD in Geol. Sciences
State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine

Deposits of Ukrainian amber are concentrated in the north-western part of Ukraine in Rovno region. Current amber reserves of the discovered deposits are estimated within 134.8 tons; while potential ones – over 950 tons. Commercial development of Ukrainian amber deposits was launched in 1993, upon foundation of the state-owned amber extraction and processing enterprise “Ukryantar” in Rovno. The first Ukrainian amber, extracted by SE “Ukryantar,” rolled off the production line in May 1994. Amber extraction averaged 2.5-3.0 tons per year and took place at the “Pugach” quarry of the Klesov amber deposit.
In 2005, the amber extraction monopoly was abolished, though, the complexity of the Ukrainian legislation still prevents from increasing the number of extracting companies. In September, 2009, the Ministry of Environmental Protection of Ukraine held an open auction where the Centre “Solnechnoye Remeslo” LLC acquired a license to mine amber in the Vladimirets Vostochny amber deposit. The Centre “Solnechnoye Remeslo” LLC conducted a geological survey but never started the extraction. SE “Ukryantar” was reorganised to the state enterprise “Yantar Ukrainy.” Since the end of 2009, amber extraction at the “Pugach” quarry was quitted due to the depletion of reserves.

“Baltic Jewellery News” (hereinafter – BJN): How many tons of amber were extracted in 2012 on average.... or, amber is no longer extracted legally?

Interview with Stine Ingvoldstad Svendsen,
The Organizing Committee of the  Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair

We would like to know your opinion about Norwegian Jewellery and watch industry.
What's your opinion on modern Norwegian jewellery design?

 The industry in Norway is quite small, with few producers of jewellery. Foreign brands are popular among the customers. The main trend is the scandinavian modernist design.
Traditionally its been difficult to get recognized as a  Norwegian jewellery designer. Few shops and long distances have made it hard too distribute the jewellery.
One of the goals of the Norwegian Jewelery and Watch Trade Fair is to promote and create a channel for designers. Here they have the possibility to display their collection and build a network within the industry. Some of the tools we have used is giving them a good position within the hall as well as promoted them. Each year we will promote new designers and their collections through marketing of the Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair. 

What is your opinion about  the previous exhibition?

Norwegian Jewelry and Watch Trade Fair 2012 was a success.
During the days of the exhibition, and the feedback from our survey confirmed the need of a trade fair in the Norwegian jewelry and watch industry. Both the exhibitors and the buyers were pleased with the 2012 trade fair.

How much exhibitors was in the show, from which countries?

ANNIVERSARY  INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW ‘AMBER TRIP’

March 13–16^th, 2013. Vilnius Lithuania

1-st place winner – RASMA PUSPURE (Latvia)

1-st place winner – DITE DILGINIENE (Lithuania)

3-th place winner – NAURIS NASLENAS (Lithuania)

 Special prize

JURIJ VELIKOTSKIJ  (Russia)

 Special prize

JURIJ BILKOV (Russia)

Special prize

GERHARD HELMER (Germany)

 Special prize

ELA PAVINSKIENE (Lithuania)

 Special prize

RAMUNE-JUDAITE-MISEVICIENE (Lithuania)