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Antwerp Jewellery Report
Never-ending Story - Master of the Contemporary Movement in Jewellery

Report by Angele Juodzeviciene

Michael Zobel may be described as a cosmopolitan of a modern kind: born in 1942 in Tangier, Morocco, raised in Barcelona, Spain, followed by an apprenticeship as a goldsmith (1958–1961) and then a degree in art and design at the School for Design in Pforzheim (1961–1964). His teacher, Professor Ullrich, “opened his eyes and showed him the possibilities of jewellery design and the potentialities of forging gold”. From 1965 on he worked as a designer of jewellery in the studio of Henry Denys in France. In 1968 Zobel returned to Germany to open his shop in Constance. Annick Denys and Michael Zobel have been married for 35 years now, and their two daughters, Laetitia und Jolanda, have long since grown up. Michael Zobel gained international acceptance because of his inventiveness and ideas. For many years he has been a member of “Aspects“, an acclaimed group of jewellery designers. Even without deeply knowing Michael Zobel’s work, his many international awards and prizes show that what he does can be called international art, maybe it is even more appropriate to say: world art. Without any doubt, his works are internationally recognized and of the highest standard.

In September 2003 he was appointed honorary professor of the National University for architecture, construction and transport in Kyrgyzstan. For several years now, Michael Zobel has taken part in an international, UNESCO-supported project called „The Great Silk Route: A Dialogue between East and West”, which organizes exhibitions in various cities in Asia and Europe.

On the first of February 2005, Michael Zobel handed over his business after 37 years to Peter Schmid, his long time collaborator. Zobel will now continue to work creatively and dedicate himself to work in the studio, for which until now it was difficult to find the time, while Schmid keeps the shop running.

Like successful politicians, who as elder statesmen travel the world and lecture on their accumulated experiences, the internationally well-known and esteemed jewellery designer Michael Zobel is also invited to speak about his work at the international symposiums and meetings for gemmology and jewellery design.

Please comment on the beginning of your creative road. When did and why did you create your first piece of jewellery?

 

 

Since my childhood, I always dreamed of becoming a painter but my father wanted that I would learn a “real job”. The compromise was goldsmith. And during my apprenticeship, it was in the early 60s, I just loved to create pieces for my mother.

You participated in the jury of the artistic competition “FOR YOU”, which was held during the “Amber Trip” fair, how could you evaluate this competition?

 

 

The artistic level of this competition was very high and the members of jury were very critical. It was very interesting to work with them together. Especially interesting for me was the contribution of Michael Petry from London. You could feel the freshness of the current English scene.

Also the internationality of the jury members was a very enriching aspect. In this way the brilliant result was warranted. Also interesting was that each jury member gave a lecture so everybody could have a look at their activity, which were in each case inspiring.

When you saw all the jewellery works at first, could you tell who would claim the prizes or diplomas?

I think YES. But it also was absorbing to hear the opinion of other jury members. At such sessions the argumentation of each member is very exciting.

How do you assess the realization of Lithuanian artists in the competition theme?

I was very surprised at the realization of Lithuanian Artists - about their fantasy and eagerness to experiment. Also the audacity to innovate and to use unconventional materials is extremely meritorious.

What you can wish for next year’s competition - in addition to a successful event?

Of course again such a great success! More participation, and more international artists. It would be nice to see some works from the USA.

Thank you very much for your opinion. So let‘s talk a little bit about yourself. What emotion do you want your jewellery to evoke?

The impression of symbiosis, dialog – between the metals, precious stones and other, sometimes not so conventional materials, even when at the same time the contrast is very important to me.

How do you understand the purpose of art and an artist?

 

 

The aim of art is to seduce through the artist to the joy of the artistically precious objects.

Give us your definition of your creativity

It is a never ending story. My inspiration is nature and she has no limits to her creativity.

Have you ever been attracted by other types of art? Poetry, music?

Yes, sure! As I told you – painting had always attracted me enormously. But also poetry, music, sculpture, architecture, theatre, and dance – more or less everything related to art and expression. I try to include all this in my design.

What is your most memorable work experience?

The earrings for the competition “Ring and earrings in gold and precious stones” in 1970! It was my first award.

What is your opinion about the current world situation?

We have always had crises, wars, and catastrophes. This crisis will also pass.

How would you describe jewellery from Baltic Region?

What I have seen was really very interesting and innovative. I think it is a revival of an old tradition of Baltic jewellery in the modern world.

Can you describe a typical workday for such a well-known and famous artist?

No. I’m sorry. Each day is so different from the other and I’m travelling so much that I don’t have typical work days.

 Where do you find inspiration for creating jewellery and lectures?

 

 

Do you think - every piece of jewellery is or should be erotic? Every piece of jewellery is dedicated to person who wants to be special?

I think that each person who likes to wear jewellery wants to bring out in this way his erotic appeal. For sure they are some exceptions and for sure everything is relative. We also know that some people want just to show the size of their bank account through jewellery. Which is a pity!

Favourite place to visit or place you’d like to visit?

Born in Tangier (Morocco) and having grown up in Barcelona, my absolute favourite place is the Mediterranean Sea, from East to West and from South to North.

Your future plans. What would be your dream project?

The exhibition within the international cultural project “Great Silk Road – East-West Dialog” in the Kremlin Museum in Moscow.

If you had the power to make three changes to the current system, what would they be?

I think generally that the cultural engagement of countries should be much, much stronger. In school much more attention and importance should be placed on teaching people tolerance and comprehension of each other.

Do you think it is enough (the purpose of art and an artist) - "to teach people tolerance and comprehension of each other"? What about your experience as a teacher?

I think it is not enough but it is an excellent path to follow! Certainly international exhibitions (like those from the project "Great Silk Road. East-West Dialogues") help a lot to accept and understand differences, to create a climate of tolerance and comprehension. I also had an extraordinary experience with international students when I was teaching at the Instituto Europeo di Design in Milan (Italy).

Thank you very much for your answers and an interesting conversation.

 

My inspiration for jewellery is beautiful women and nature. Concerning the lectures – I don’t need or have an inspiration – I just speak about my work.

"A piece of jewellery is above all a concept, an idea. If on the one hand such a concept has to be subordinated to the material, it is on the other also deeply inspired by it. Trough the connection of precious metals, stones and unconventional materials I create unique objects, which make the extraordinary wearable. For 40 years, this has been the stimulus and demand of my creative work" Michael Zobel

 

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
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